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	<title>Comments on: The Tomato Famine</title>
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	<description>Heronswood Voice - A web log written by George Ball</description>
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		<title>By: Diane</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-24005</link>
		<dc:creator>Diane</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:19:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-24005</guid>
		<description>I agree with Nira C. although a friend dropped off a few big box store tomato plants, which failed quite quickly, I did save about half of  (50) plants and about 30 pepper plants, with removing the sick plants quickly, fertilizing with blood meal though very touch and go. I did have enough for salsa and some tomatoes and pepper storing. To my surprise the beatiful, best looking and best tasting tomato came from burpee, It outperformed my Black Krim by far. It was the Black Truffle Hybrid. I am a seed saver from way back and have used each years seed to provide at least 7 families with garden vegetables. The eggplants were the only plants to never regain there health, although a few were so strong by the end of the year, I brought a few for the winter and they are quite happy.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree with Nira C. although a friend dropped off a few big box store tomato plants, which failed quite quickly, I did save about half of  (50) plants and about 30 pepper plants, with removing the sick plants quickly, fertilizing with blood meal though very touch and go. I did have enough for salsa and some tomatoes and pepper storing. To my surprise the beatiful, best looking and best tasting tomato came from burpee, It outperformed my Black Krim by far. It was the Black Truffle Hybrid. I am a seed saver from way back and have used each years seed to provide at least 7 families with garden vegetables. The eggplants were the only plants to never regain there health, although a few were so strong by the end of the year, I brought a few for the winter and they are quite happy.</p>
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		<title>By: Lj</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-22068</link>
		<dc:creator>Lj</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Sep 2009 00:31:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-22068</guid>
		<description>This is getting to be a very interesting tomato famine thread and full of extra information, too. I like the seed saving on newspaper and then planting the seed stuck to the newspaper and all.
At a farm stand yesterday in central NY state I saw the tomatoes for sale and asked the gardenr about the famine in her gardens. Yes. All the hybrids got it this time and her heirlooms are coming along great. 
She said that in other years it is the other way around.
There is nothing to spray for this from any supplier. It is the combination of constant rain,cool temperatures, and humidity that allows the fungus to grow and spread.
Thanks for the information about putting the plants in the trash and not to worry about the soil. Maybe next summer we&#039;ll get some sunshine before late August as happened this year.
I understand that the rain, damp, no sun combination happened for successive years in Ireland so the potato crops didn&#039;t have a chance.
Too bad there&#039;s no salsa and tomato sauce this year, however.
Even the corn is a little strange. None of it ripens to the end of the ears and I think it is not all that tasty either.
Happy gardening... there are always zucchini, I guess.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is getting to be a very interesting tomato famine thread and full of extra information, too. I like the seed saving on newspaper and then planting the seed stuck to the newspaper and all.<br />
At a farm stand yesterday in central NY state I saw the tomatoes for sale and asked the gardenr about the famine in her gardens. Yes. All the hybrids got it this time and her heirlooms are coming along great.<br />
She said that in other years it is the other way around.<br />
There is nothing to spray for this from any supplier. It is the combination of constant rain,cool temperatures, and humidity that allows the fungus to grow and spread.<br />
Thanks for the information about putting the plants in the trash and not to worry about the soil. Maybe next summer we&#8217;ll get some sunshine before late August as happened this year.<br />
I understand that the rain, damp, no sun combination happened for successive years in Ireland so the potato crops didn&#8217;t have a chance.<br />
Too bad there&#8217;s no salsa and tomato sauce this year, however.<br />
Even the corn is a little strange. None of it ripens to the end of the ears and I think it is not all that tasty either.<br />
Happy gardening&#8230; there are always zucchini, I guess.</p>
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		<title>By: Nira C</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21977</link>
		<dc:creator>Nira C</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2009 14:29:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21977</guid>
		<description>I live in upstate New York which was hit hard by late blight. Being an organic and heirloom gardener I had little hope of preventing the disease. When it did hit I checked every day for diseased leaves and removed them. I was able to save most plants and it appears to be slowing down. I realize that I do not have as many plants as some who sell at markets, but this worked for me with 20 plants. 

According to Cornell University the pathogen does not enter the fruit and therefore it can be safely eaten. Nor does the pathogen remain in the soil or the seeds; therefore, it does not effect rotation or the saving of seeds for next year. All diseased leaves and plants should be bagged and put in the trash.

I think most, if not all heirloom varieties will survive no matter what Mother Nature throws at us. There are many, many gardeners dedicated to growing wholesome, delicious tasting food and we have many skills and knowledge to keep that going.

&quot;so the hybrid tomatoes of the 20th century as well as those of the early 21st century will be the saving grace of tomato lovers everywhere.&quot; Yes, if you like cardboard.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in upstate New York which was hit hard by late blight. Being an organic and heirloom gardener I had little hope of preventing the disease. When it did hit I checked every day for diseased leaves and removed them. I was able to save most plants and it appears to be slowing down. I realize that I do not have as many plants as some who sell at markets, but this worked for me with 20 plants. </p>
<p>According to Cornell University the pathogen does not enter the fruit and therefore it can be safely eaten. Nor does the pathogen remain in the soil or the seeds; therefore, it does not effect rotation or the saving of seeds for next year. All diseased leaves and plants should be bagged and put in the trash.</p>
<p>I think most, if not all heirloom varieties will survive no matter what Mother Nature throws at us. There are many, many gardeners dedicated to growing wholesome, delicious tasting food and we have many skills and knowledge to keep that going.</p>
<p>&#8220;so the hybrid tomatoes of the 20th century as well as those of the early 21st century will be the saving grace of tomato lovers everywhere.&#8221; Yes, if you like cardboard.</p>
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		<title>By: Joe Martin</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21930</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe Martin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 14:36:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21930</guid>
		<description>I live in NEPA and it has been a wet year.  I planted cherry and beefsteak tomatoes. I have been able to get them through the wet months by staking the vines as they get bigger and cutting off any dead vines, all the brown or black leaves and removing bad tomatoes every two to three days.  I put the leaves in my compost pile.

My tomatoes are from seed that I save every year from my own plants.  I have seeds from 2005 thru 2008. I squeeze seeds from healthy tomatoes onto newspaper, let them dry and store them, attached to the newspaper.  When planting indoors in March or April, I tear the newspaper from around each seed and plant the seed still attached to a small piece of the paper.  I get 90% germination and transplant seedlings twice before putting them outside in early May.

Sometimes I will buy seeds from prior years at local hardware stores, on sale.

I have not had any trouble with cucumbers, lettuce, garlic, green squash or butternut squash.

I am an organic gardener and use no chemicals or fertilizer. I compost everything that is organic and I can obtain grass clippings, leaves and horse manure for free.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in NEPA and it has been a wet year.  I planted cherry and beefsteak tomatoes. I have been able to get them through the wet months by staking the vines as they get bigger and cutting off any dead vines, all the brown or black leaves and removing bad tomatoes every two to three days.  I put the leaves in my compost pile.</p>
<p>My tomatoes are from seed that I save every year from my own plants.  I have seeds from 2005 thru 2008. I squeeze seeds from healthy tomatoes onto newspaper, let them dry and store them, attached to the newspaper.  When planting indoors in March or April, I tear the newspaper from around each seed and plant the seed still attached to a small piece of the paper.  I get 90% germination and transplant seedlings twice before putting them outside in early May.</p>
<p>Sometimes I will buy seeds from prior years at local hardware stores, on sale.</p>
<p>I have not had any trouble with cucumbers, lettuce, garlic, green squash or butternut squash.</p>
<p>I am an organic gardener and use no chemicals or fertilizer. I compost everything that is organic and I can obtain grass clippings, leaves and horse manure for free.</p>
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		<title>By: Jessie</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21759</link>
		<dc:creator>Jessie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Aug 2009 13:20:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21759</guid>
		<description>I live in central New jersey and I am an organic gardener and avid heirloom tomato grower. What tomato blight in the Northeast? 
If you grow your own hybrid or not, you should take preventative measures to avoid fungal diseases. In New Jersey we always have wet seasons with high hot humid weather. And you never buy tomato plants from big box anything. You dont just stick them in the ground and expect great tomatoes. it starts with soil that has been amended with good compost of your own with a side dressing of natural organic tomato fertilizer for each plant. This helps avoid blossom end rot and a host of other nutrient deficiencies you may have. If dont rotate that garden every 3 years then like me who has no other spot in her yard you need to be proactive. Go to Gardens Alive website and they have numerous products to avoid these fungal matters. I have used all of them and I have never had a failed crop of anything. My only problems are rabbits and groundhogs! It is August and I have a bounty of ripe cherry tomatoes - chadwick cherry,Peacevine - and med to large varieties like-  Marianna&#039;s Peace, Julia Child, Buckbee 50, Aussie, Elfin,and Sandal Moldovan - all from seeds from Tomatofest.com website. They are open pollinated and organic and delicious. I do not have any hybrids however in Jersey, the Rutgers tomato is excellant tasting and is a med size tomato so it ripens early and in years past I have always included it in my garden when I had room. Remember diversity always wins out as well as educating yourself on what you grow. Dave&#039;s garden website,territorrial seed company,Gardens Alive and tomatofest.com will start you on your way. Always organic fertilizers and sprays and you will always be okay. At the end of the season, slice that Hawaiin Pineapple tomato, garnish it with your own basil and top it with fresh mozzarella and olive oil and you will never go back to the supermarket again for tomatoes!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in central New jersey and I am an organic gardener and avid heirloom tomato grower. What tomato blight in the Northeast?<br />
If you grow your own hybrid or not, you should take preventative measures to avoid fungal diseases. In New Jersey we always have wet seasons with high hot humid weather. And you never buy tomato plants from big box anything. You dont just stick them in the ground and expect great tomatoes. it starts with soil that has been amended with good compost of your own with a side dressing of natural organic tomato fertilizer for each plant. This helps avoid blossom end rot and a host of other nutrient deficiencies you may have. If dont rotate that garden every 3 years then like me who has no other spot in her yard you need to be proactive. Go to Gardens Alive website and they have numerous products to avoid these fungal matters. I have used all of them and I have never had a failed crop of anything. My only problems are rabbits and groundhogs! It is August and I have a bounty of ripe cherry tomatoes &#8211; chadwick cherry,Peacevine &#8211; and med to large varieties like-  Marianna&#8217;s Peace, Julia Child, Buckbee 50, Aussie, Elfin,and Sandal Moldovan &#8211; all from seeds from Tomatofest.com website. They are open pollinated and organic and delicious. I do not have any hybrids however in Jersey, the Rutgers tomato is excellant tasting and is a med size tomato so it ripens early and in years past I have always included it in my garden when I had room. Remember diversity always wins out as well as educating yourself on what you grow. Dave&#8217;s garden website,territorrial seed company,Gardens Alive and tomatofest.com will start you on your way. Always organic fertilizers and sprays and you will always be okay. At the end of the season, slice that Hawaiin Pineapple tomato, garnish it with your own basil and top it with fresh mozzarella and olive oil and you will never go back to the supermarket again for tomatoes!</p>
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		<title>By: M.McGrath</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21739</link>
		<dc:creator>M.McGrath</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Aug 2009 02:09:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21739</guid>
		<description>I am a fan of history, so I really appreciated your telling of the history of the Irish potato famine. .

You observed that hybrid varieties of tomatoes at Fordhook Farms fared better than open pollinated or heirloom varieties. Aren&#039;t hybrids a cross breeding between two pure strains of open pollinated varieties? Won&#039;t those parent varieties succumb to the blight, eliminating at least a years worth of hybrid seed?

My own concerns with &quot;the monolithic food industry, Big Agriculture, &#039;bioengineering&#039;, and &#039;industrial farms&#039;&quot; is that more and more of the planet&#039;s seed stocks are in the hands of fewer and fewer people. Most people do not realize (although I am sure you are well aware of it) that Monsanto has a virtual monopoly on the soybean market in the US, and that all the soybean seed they sell is genetically modified so that it can survive being sprayed with glyphosate, a weed killer. Monsanto bought Seminis, a company that is responsible for almost half of the seeds sold to home gardeners. Burpee retails many Seminis varieties. I am sure that since Monsanto is primarily concerned with maximizing profits and sees no need to preserve genetic diversity, that many of the Seminis varieties, including hybrids that many market farmers have come to depend on, will disappear as not being profitable enough. 

What do you do if your livelihood depends on the produce you sell to restaurants, at farmers markets or even to local grocery stores and your dependable hybrid, disease and/or pest resistant varieties disappear without warning? Those market farmers will have to spend two or three years trialing different varieties to see if they are suitable. With open pollinated varieties, that is much less of an issue. 

Your essay pointed out the need for plant breeding and genetic diversity, but most big agricultural corporations do not want and do not support genetic diversity. Today, instead of breeding and trialing varieties within a species of plant, scientists are splicing in genes from other organisms, heedless of the possible ramifications if those genes escape into the wild, which has already happened. There are weed stocks now that contain Monsanto&#039;s RoundUp Ready patented gene.

I hope that Burpee and Heronswood continue the fine tradition of plant breeding and trialing, in defiance of the big business, profit-at-any-cost modus operandi. Burpee has a long history of breeding top quality varieties that suited a wide range of growers. I would hate to see that excellent practice restricted or terminated.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am a fan of history, so I really appreciated your telling of the history of the Irish potato famine. .</p>
<p>You observed that hybrid varieties of tomatoes at Fordhook Farms fared better than open pollinated or heirloom varieties. Aren&#8217;t hybrids a cross breeding between two pure strains of open pollinated varieties? Won&#8217;t those parent varieties succumb to the blight, eliminating at least a years worth of hybrid seed?</p>
<p>My own concerns with &#8220;the monolithic food industry, Big Agriculture, &#8216;bioengineering&#8217;, and &#8216;industrial farms&#8217;&#8221; is that more and more of the planet&#8217;s seed stocks are in the hands of fewer and fewer people. Most people do not realize (although I am sure you are well aware of it) that Monsanto has a virtual monopoly on the soybean market in the US, and that all the soybean seed they sell is genetically modified so that it can survive being sprayed with glyphosate, a weed killer. Monsanto bought Seminis, a company that is responsible for almost half of the seeds sold to home gardeners. Burpee retails many Seminis varieties. I am sure that since Monsanto is primarily concerned with maximizing profits and sees no need to preserve genetic diversity, that many of the Seminis varieties, including hybrids that many market farmers have come to depend on, will disappear as not being profitable enough. </p>
<p>What do you do if your livelihood depends on the produce you sell to restaurants, at farmers markets or even to local grocery stores and your dependable hybrid, disease and/or pest resistant varieties disappear without warning? Those market farmers will have to spend two or three years trialing different varieties to see if they are suitable. With open pollinated varieties, that is much less of an issue. </p>
<p>Your essay pointed out the need for plant breeding and genetic diversity, but most big agricultural corporations do not want and do not support genetic diversity. Today, instead of breeding and trialing varieties within a species of plant, scientists are splicing in genes from other organisms, heedless of the possible ramifications if those genes escape into the wild, which has already happened. There are weed stocks now that contain Monsanto&#8217;s RoundUp Ready patented gene.</p>
<p>I hope that Burpee and Heronswood continue the fine tradition of plant breeding and trialing, in defiance of the big business, profit-at-any-cost modus operandi. Burpee has a long history of breeding top quality varieties that suited a wide range of growers. I would hate to see that excellent practice restricted or terminated.</p>
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		<title>By: Frieda Barrows</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21706</link>
		<dc:creator>Frieda Barrows</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Aug 2009 17:31:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21706</guid>
		<description>I live in the foothills of Maine and just went out to check on my 65 tomato plants. They were showing signs of blight 3 weeks ago and I removed all branches that were turning and trimmed the plants up so that they would get good air circulation. It finally stopped raining last week but its very humid and when I checked the plant today I found that I had lost 1/4 of them and the others are well on their way to dying. I grow 8 varieties and only 1 type was from a big box store but these were the first to go. Oh well, no spaghetti sauce, salsa or plates of fresh sliced brandywines this year!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in the foothills of Maine and just went out to check on my 65 tomato plants. They were showing signs of blight 3 weeks ago and I removed all branches that were turning and trimmed the plants up so that they would get good air circulation. It finally stopped raining last week but its very humid and when I checked the plant today I found that I had lost 1/4 of them and the others are well on their way to dying. I grow 8 varieties and only 1 type was from a big box store but these were the first to go. Oh well, no spaghetti sauce, salsa or plates of fresh sliced brandywines this year!</p>
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		<title>By: Mike Hamper</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21694</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Hamper</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Aug 2009 12:58:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21694</guid>
		<description>I much enjoyed and appreciated this first time read as I was searched for information on Late Blite. I live in the Northeast corner of Ohio. I do 8 small market gardens,( 2-Acres total) and tail-gate my vegs. I do this Organically or Sustainability now for 40 years. We refer to it as an outcome of our Homesteading with our family of 9 children, now all out on their own. Three years ago I noticed the brownish green leasions on my tomatoes with some loss and little consern,assuming it was a calicum difficency in my soil,I did add cruched egg shell for this to each plant and had two years without the problem.  I of course was not not familar with the loss potential that has occured this year. I plant several varities of tomatoes and potatoes for my market and focus on two tomatoe varities which is my bulk tomatoes sales, and several varities of potatoes. I do have some survivors in my total planting of approx. 250 tomatoe plants , both hybid and heirlom. I have tomatoes in 3 different garden areas with about 50 - 80 feet of seperation. This is interesting in that fact along. I planted approx 850 pounds of seed potatoes and did not pay any different attention to the potatoe crops and they seem to have went thru the normal process of growth and dying off. I will watch carefully now in my storage as that is probably where any results of blite will show up for me in early storage failure. I have rambled on enough I fear ... for now Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I much enjoyed and appreciated this first time read as I was searched for information on Late Blite. I live in the Northeast corner of Ohio. I do 8 small market gardens,( 2-Acres total) and tail-gate my vegs. I do this Organically or Sustainability now for 40 years. We refer to it as an outcome of our Homesteading with our family of 9 children, now all out on their own. Three years ago I noticed the brownish green leasions on my tomatoes with some loss and little consern,assuming it was a calicum difficency in my soil,I did add cruched egg shell for this to each plant and had two years without the problem.  I of course was not not familar with the loss potential that has occured this year. I plant several varities of tomatoes and potatoes for my market and focus on two tomatoe varities which is my bulk tomatoes sales, and several varities of potatoes. I do have some survivors in my total planting of approx. 250 tomatoe plants , both hybid and heirlom. I have tomatoes in 3 different garden areas with about 50 &#8211; 80 feet of seperation. This is interesting in that fact along. I planted approx 850 pounds of seed potatoes and did not pay any different attention to the potatoe crops and they seem to have went thru the normal process of growth and dying off. I will watch carefully now in my storage as that is probably where any results of blite will show up for me in early storage failure. I have rambled on enough I fear &#8230; for now Mike</p>
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		<title>By: Joan</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21689</link>
		<dc:creator>Joan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Aug 2009 10:47:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21689</guid>
		<description>My heirlooms, grown from seed by me, are just fine thanks. I live in the mountains of western maine and we had 2 months of cold wet weather. They grow in soil enriched with sheep manure, are rotated in location, have wall-o-waters around them from transplanting time to harvest. I will need to give them temporary plastic hoop covers to get them thru to maturity(they will stop growing in early Sept without the extra heat as our temps really dip at night). I expect them to be a bit later this summer because they were cold!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My heirlooms, grown from seed by me, are just fine thanks. I live in the mountains of western maine and we had 2 months of cold wet weather. They grow in soil enriched with sheep manure, are rotated in location, have wall-o-waters around them from transplanting time to harvest. I will need to give them temporary plastic hoop covers to get them thru to maturity(they will stop growing in early Sept without the extra heat as our temps really dip at night). I expect them to be a bit later this summer because they were cold!</p>
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		<title>By: Ruth Morton</title>
		<link>http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/2009/08/the-tomato-famine/#comment-21498</link>
		<dc:creator>Ruth Morton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Aug 2009 21:34:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.heronswoodvoice.com/?p=573#comment-21498</guid>
		<description>Has anyone discoverd  a tomato that is resistant to late blight?  Also what about bacterial speck?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Has anyone discoverd  a tomato that is resistant to late blight?  Also what about bacterial speck?</p>
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